Albarino and grilled sardines

Out on the western edge of the Celtic fringe of Europe is this small isolated country, a land of fjord like inlets called Rias, rolling hills and farms, empty beaches and rocky headlands along what is known as the coast of death. The land is beset by mild temperatures and wet rain, there is a pervasive mist that settles over the land almost year round. If it isn’t misty it’s raining, a light even soaking that plumps up the albarino grape in the Rias Baixas and allows a delicious full bodied white wine.

Galicia has age old links with Cornwall, Ireland, Wales and Brittany. The Gallego language is still widely spoken and is a hybrid of Latin, Spanish and Celtic. Folk music is popular and in the village bars it is not unusual to see a band playing using similar instruments to traditional irish groups. There is a slight sense of sadness across the land, it might be something to do with the weather, or the solitude, or the many who emigrate to the Americas- There are said to be more Gallegos in Buenos Aires than all of Galicia. An older man in a bar once tried to explain it to me as being ‘Moreno’ an untranslatable gallego word that means something like wistful, or happy-sad. When the people grow tired of the new world they come back to the wet valleys of their homeland, content with their discontent.

Albarino is the quality white from the region, and is one of the best wines to drink with seafood or strong fish. It’s very different flavour makes it a stand out at any tasting I go to, and for me it is the wine I always choose if it is on a wine list and we are eating seafood. The cool and wet climate is perfect for the white wine grape, and in the shelter of the rias the full flavour develops to perfection.

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Last night we cooked some sardines on the bbq just outside the back door in a cold and wet december gale. The coals glowed bright red in the wind, cooking the sardines fast and searing the salt encrusted flesh. Like all over the iberian peninsula sardines are cooked outside in order to save the house from being too infused with the aromas. We shared them with roast rosemary potatoes, a crisp salad and a hot salsa, and of course plenty of Albarino wine to lift a wintry sunday late afternoon. We reminisced on our travels through the region, and the pervading sense of Celticness and ‘moreno’ that the little country has.
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We bought some Maior de Mendoza, an atypical albarinho as it has been stored on the lees. However this has given the wine an added succulence and delightful apricot flavours. Oliver at North Coast wines is doing some great deals on wines, with this bottle on sale at under £8, an excellent offer as even in Galicia you would be hard pressed to find an Albarino under 10 euros. Of course if you don’t want to avail yourself of this offer, I suggest a visit to this delightful country and a taste of their produce.
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Paella and Navajas Rosado

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On a long hot summer evening I love to see a group of friends waiting on a huge pan of Paella, drinking rose and watching the sun go down. Especially if you have gathered some of your own shellfish and others have bought fish or meats to add to the pot.

All over Spain the hardware stores sell huge paella pans and stoves to take to outside parties. The last few years have seen a popular take up of Volleyball, and on a sunday afternoon courts are scratched out, a net is strung up and while some play, some cook, often in vast pans able to cater for 30 or more.

The meal is now pan-iberian and recipes change according to district, region and most importantly what is available. One thing is constant, the wafting rich smell of saffron, fish, rice and garlic, whether drifting over hot beach sands, or pine scented forest is a typical Spanish note, add the high voices of family and children and you are unmistakably immersed in Iberian culture.

The basic recipe is very simple: Rice, Saffron, onions, garlic, fish and shellfish, and food is added to the pot according to how long it needs to cook. The Typical Andalusian recipe involves chicken on the bone, but I have used duck, and spanish sausage and pieces of pork on occasion, whatever is to hand. In Catalonia the stock is darker and fishier and hardly ever cooked with meats.

I always like to start with browning the meat in the pan and then adding chopped onions and garlic with plenty of olive oil, and then adding the rice. Spanish Paella rice is similar to rissotto rice, and really any short grain rice will do. Although if you manage to obtain some of that wonderful nutty rice from the spanish deltas you will be well rewarded. Once this is stirred around the pot gathering up the meat browning and olive oil the stock is added, usually chicken stock in Andalusia, or fish stock in Catalonia; which has had plenty of saffron steeped in it for a few hours. when the rice is swimming in stock at 3 parts stock to one part rice, the fish is added making sure it is well covered and finally the shellfish. A few gentle stirs are needed to stop the rice sticking to the pan, but not too much or the fish will fall apart and the shellfish get stuck with rice. As the last of the stock is soaked up and the rice is plump and golden serve immediately. Everyone will be waiting and a big pan is easy to serve from. Use large chunks of white fish- sustainable pollock or ling is perfect from our shores, along with mussels, clams, squid, and prawns- shell on, fresh and large if you can get them. Herbs are generally wild thyme from the hills sprinkled liberally during cooking. The resulting dish should be a rich gold, glistening with oil and inundated with tasty bites of fish, chicken and shellfish.

We drunk a couple of bottles of Rioja Rosado Navajas, a young fruity rosado which had a brilliant heady flavour, perfect with the richness of saffron rice. It is a great slurping wine and affordable enough to buy a few bottles for a long evening with friends. The flavour is bright and intense, typically Spanish and getting popular in the beachfront restaurants and bars all over the peninsula this year.

If you are in Bude the very knowledgeable Oliver from North Coast Wines has a few cases left of the Navajas at a reasonable, quaffable price. You will be intrigued at the taste, with 50% tempranillo and 50% viura grape it is a very different rose, very spanish, and well worth a go.

 

 

Oxtail burgers

Oxtail has a gorgeous sticky meaty flavour, and makes an impressive burger, it takes a long time and this recipe is intensive. You couldn’t call this burger fast food, but I love making them for the indulgence and a what I’d say is the tastiest burger you’ve ever tried.

I had the idea from a restaurant in Spain where my wife and I sat at a bar while the chefs bought us the most amazing tapas, it was a modern spanish menu with a fusion of international styles. Plenty of long cooked meat dishes, some melting Pata Negra hams and some amazing ceviche and spanish sushi type tasters. The service was fast and professional, with a great choice of wine by the glass. It could cost you a small fortune, but also you could eat there on a budget. I had one of their oxtail burgers, it arrived on a small plate in a little soft bun with a few leaves of crisp lettuce and a dollop of fresh mayonnaise. It was mesmerising, enormously tasty and hard not to keep ordering more and more.

At our pub I would occasionally serve three burgers as a starter, with a rich hot sauce from the reduction, and a little fresh mayonnaise on the side. I’d place the sticky burgers in little brioche buns with rocket.

Oxtail is the tastiest of beef cuts, but it requires several hours of cooking to release the succulent meat from the grip of tough fats- it must be all that swishing. The beauty of this burger is you get all that lip smacking flavour without chasing a bone around the plate. The mixing of prune and oxtail is an old British idea and works well along with some sharpness from the pickled walnut balanced with the ugami saltiness of anchovies.

Dice an onion and garlic and sweat in butter, then add your oxtail, I used 5lb for eight burgers, so adjust accordingly. Then add a handful of prunes, a couple of chopped pickled walnuts, six anchovies, a glass of red wine and a glass of dark stout or beer and a tot of good sherry vinegar. Then top up with water and bring to a slow boil, and simmer for 3-4 hours or more. The meat is done when it easily comes off the bone, so keep an eye on it towards the end of cooking. Remove the meat carefully, and then sieve the stock and put by. When the meat has cooled you can pull it from the bone and add it to the the contents of the sieve. I like to make sure there is no gristle by breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon.

To make the patties I add a half a cup of breadcrumbs and form the patties into balls before flattening slightly. You can put them in the fridge to chill. Cooking them in a hot oven on a greased tray is best to keep the shape.

The left over stock will make an amazing sauce if left to reduce by half, you can create a demi glace or add a beurre manie to save time- but make sure the flour proteins are cooked out. or add more vinegar and sugar for a sharper piquant sauce.

I sometimes make them for a dinner party too and I suggest serving a larger patty on some mashed winter root vegetables with a demi glace. garnished with a sprig of thyme.

A wine to go with this needs plenty of punch, I first thought of a Gran Reserva Rioja, to remind me of that first burger but I saw a bottle of Hochar Pere et Fils at North Coast Wines in Bude. Hochar is the second wine from Chateau Musar, that great Lebanese wine I blogged about here.

IMG_4934The Hochar still has that great idiosyncratic flavour of sun drenched mountain valleys. There is a hint of raisin, a subtle resiny wood, but the wine is noticeably lighter in colour than it’s older brother, and much less oaked. Still it is a great wine at an affordable price of about £12. I expect that this wine is a good indicator of the quality of Ch. Musar for the year, having previously and recently tasted the 2003, and noticed the similarity.

Patagonia wine Saurus

I have often dreamed of visiting Patagonia after reading Bruce Chatwin’s excellent travelogue ‘In Patagonia’ So if I see a Patagonian wine for sale I  buy it and let the taste flavour my imagination for that faraway distant land where Welsh families still live in splendid isolation.

Patagonia is fast becoming a leading region in quality wines and this Sauvignon Blanc is typical of the wines coming from this far South region. The climate suits cool whites having hot days and cold nights, although the reds are also very interesting. Pinot Noir is the usual white varietal, I went for a Sauvignon Blanc from North Coast Wines to go with Fridays fish & chip supper. However the price on offer meant I took another bottle and we shared it with friends for Sunday’s roast chicken. I imagined many Welsh descendants having a similar meal in that far distant ‘Land of Giants’.Saurus 2008

At 39 degrees south Neuquen in northern Patagonia is a wind swept and dry plain backed by striking mountains. It is nearly a desert but the Argentine government is fast realising the potential of the terroir for quality wines and the landscape is greening.

The Saurus sauvignon blanc has plenty of citrus notes, almost grapefruit flavours and a straw colour that invites a good mouthful. The Familia Shroeder discovered a dinosaur fossil of a huge beast that roamed the land when they excavated for the cellar of their wines and Saurus is an apt name for this big white.  A sunday roast chicken with plenty of thyme and garlic complemented the well balanced acidity cutting through the fats and gravy of the moist chicken.

North Coast wines in Bude have a great selection of interesting wines. It is great to have a nearby shop that prides itself on diversity and affordability. This wine was a bin end at a very affordable £5. I expect they will sell out soon so it’s worth grabbing a bottle or two if you are passing. I’m sure I will be returning for another adventure soon.

“I pictured a low timber house with a shingled roof, caulked against storms, with blazing log fires inside and the walls lined with all the best books, somewhere to live when the rest of the world blew up.” Bruce Chatwin – In Patagonia

 

“I climbed a path and from the top looked up-stream towards Chile. I could see the river, glinting and sliding through the bone-white cliffs with strips of emerald cultivation either side. Away from the cliffs was the desert. There was no sound but the wind, whirring through thorns and whistling through dead grass, and no other sign of life but a hawk, and a black beetle easing over white stones.”  Bruce Chatwin – In Patagonia

Sea Bass Tagine

My eldest son is off to Morocco tomorrow with his girlfriend. I am quite jealous. They fly into Marrakech and are keen to tour the south of the country. I thought I would make them a dinner of a good sea bass tagine to celebrate. At this time of year I love the warmth of a Moroccan meal. Those spices and earthy sweet and sour flavours make a delicious winter meal. Cinnamon and clove flavours infuse the house, and it’s a great way to share food.
20110103-IMG_4604 I once spent a month in a big old VW van seeing how far we could get down into the western sahara, we did pretty well seeing as we had little money and no proper visas. The vastness of the desert played tricks with my mind. I got very psychedelic and contemplated buying a camel and drifting south down the coast with a surfboard strapped behind me. Morocco truly expanded my consciousness. The huge silent vistas of the southern desert were incredibly humbling.

During that time we had a tagine nearly every night. I loved the simple cooking and sharing- the tagine both bakes and stews at the same time. Over the coals outdoors it creates a small oven, and meat, fish and vegetables cook succulently with the bright spice and fruit flavours sealed in. A good casserole dish can be used in the same way if it is hob proof though the tagine hat shaped lid really works to keep the heat in and the flavours mixing
20110103-IMG_4602 Tonight I laid 4 prepared sea bass over a tagine of butternut squash, potato, onion, celery, aubergine, mango and parsnip, in a stock with cinnamon, cloves, paprika, honey and coriander.
I gutted, scaled, headed and tailed the bass, and stuffed with a slice of lemon. meanwhile I stewed the onion, celery, some garlic and potatoes in oil in the base of the tagine before layering butternut, parsnip and mango on top, finally laying the fish on top, and pouring half a cup of the stock over all. I cooked it in the tagine for half an hour and sprinkled some coriander over for the last 5 minutes.
When we took off the lid the sweet-sour cinnamon-lemon flavours really came out, the fish was delicately steamed and we ate quickly and quietly.
20110103-IMG_4606 For  a wine I chose a light french red of medium quality- A bottle of Fleurie from beaujolais. the light fruit and easy drinking suited the strongly flavoured bass. Most vintners will have a good beajolais or fleurie available, this one did the trick being a last minute buy from Morrisons at about £8.00

Have a great time Noah