And still swells keep pouring in

This has been one of the best runs of surf I can remember, with autumn swells back to back and the predominant wind from the south. Warm temperatures have remained constant, and every few days the swell picks back up and the points, bomboras and sheltered spots light up again.

This is from last weekend, a seldom breaking wave that gets surfed by a few sets of friends from the nearby area. It is a difficult wave to surf, under a steep inaccessible cliff, a long way from the nearest access point, and with a fast heavy take off. There has been a few accidents over the years, mainly due to snapped boards and leashes. Trying to rescue a board from the shore is difficult. The wave breaks over a shallow slab that juts out into deep water. It might be only a few yards from the swimmer treading water offshore, but the power breaking onto the reef is incredible. The sound of the falling lip striking shallow water echoes off the huge cliff and resonates through the surfers sitting outside. Without a board the swimmer is faced with the dilemma of a long, long swim or the detonation of the impact zone and the pinball table of a rock strewn dredging ledge.


    1. A bit later, gets better for sliders when the tide comes in and starts going square on the ledge

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